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The revenge of adult fashion
Week by week,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the indicator floating across my radar screen is so controversial, fashion barely dares speak its name. This autumn,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], middle-aged women are about to savour a long-awaited revenge.
After enduring countless years of being systematically ignored, patronised and underestimated by designers and the high street alike, grown-up British women - not teens - are finally being seen as a market ready for the taking. Think of it as the velvet, satin and cashmere revolution. The movement is not coming from the old high-street suspects we know and loathe so well. It is coming from an array of designers and start-ups who are arriving with fresh eyes in a sector that has come up with nothing more convincing than marketing campaigns featuring old supermodels (while still providing racks of elasticated slacks and floral over-blouses).
Part of the new energy is a coming-together of the forces of European experience and British creativity. Alison Buddenhagen and Jo Sykes, who both trained at Armani,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], have each set up on their own in London, suddenly emerging with startlingly accomplished collections which have been snapped up by the kind of retailers who know a sure thing when they see one. Alison Buddenhagen's Clemency has been ordered by Harvey Nichols in its debut season. Sykes by Jo Sykes has been carried by Matches for the past two seasons,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and the designer has just landed New Generation sponsorship,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], so she will be presenting her next collection during London Fashion Week at Somerset House.
These two new businesses might be seen as micro-blips relevant only to a rarefied part of the market,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], were the trend not also shaping up elsewhere.
The element of Italian know-how has also surfaced in the relaunch of Ghost, where two designers, Abdul Koroma and Andrew Jones,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who also work freelance for MaxMara, have been brought in to give one of Britain's most accessible mid-market labels an update. Jones and Koroma also have their own label,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Modernist, which they will be presenting at London Fashion week in September.
Meanwhile, Jane Shepherdson at Whistles, another representative of the upper,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], 30-40-something end of the high street, has done what she did with young designer collaborations at Topshop. This time, however, she has brought in Roksanda Ilincic, known for her sophisticated partywear, to design a collection of evening dresses.
What all of these designers have in common is a lack of prejudice about age and style. Clothes from Clemency and Sykes flow out of the designers' own knack for producing flattering trousers,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], drapey satin tops, supple leather jackets and the kind of tailoring that can look office-appropriate without appearing Eighties-executive. It's the kind of instinctive, effortlessly glossy look that operates free of any mental upper age limit,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], as is the way with European designers such as Missoni, Jil Sander,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Donna Karan, Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester.
Equally,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Shepherdson and her team don't need to waste time studying the market of "what the older woman wants" because they've grown into it themselves and, though no longer hankering after wet-look leggings and hotpants, have not suddenly found themselves attracted to A-line midis and pastel twinsets, either.
In her new post,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Shepherdson is adhering to the practice of over-fulfilling expectations that she made a tenet of Topshop's modus operandi (she didn't talk down to teenagers and, unlike far bigger high-street competitors, isn't going to patronise women in their 40s and 50s either).
Designing for "someone else" is where mass-market fashion goes wrong. As recession and fear of risk has hit the high street,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the behemoth chains have become more conservative and more terrified of doing anything but repeating ever more desultory versions of garments that were commercially successful however many seasons ago. Insecure male executives in the firing line are a recipe for how to move further and further from fashion excitement - and that is exactly how they are inadvertently making room for smaller, more astute competitors.
If any of them have read thus far,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], they might be able to shrug off the significance of the middle-age backlash on the grounds that it is only being championed by minnow-sized enterprises. But I have bad news for them. In the autumn, George Davis,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], of Next, George at Asda and Per Una, is also planning to launch a new,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], more sophisticated label into department stores. In addition,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I hear that Liz Houghton,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a chic 40-something lynch-pin of Principles (which was felled by the Icelandic banking disaster) is planning a nimble comeback with a small chain of stores that will address all the high-street omissions she, her colleagues and their mothers - and all the rest of us - have been complaining about.
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